Ramadan in Istanbul

Those fortunate to experience a Ramadan in Istanbul will often speak about the large public iftar gatherings, the hustle and bustle of Ramadan nightlife and the illuminated mosques of the city, but there are other special traditions hidden for those who seek a little deeper.

Ramadan is very much a community affair. Throngs of locals fill public spaces, parks and mosque courtyards, especially as evening draws near. In some of the great landmarks such as Eyüp Sultan, Süleymaniye Mosque and the Blue Mosque, thousands may gather with many joining the public iftars provided by the city. Find yourself a seat and enjoy a simple Turkish meal of rice with chickpeas, a portion of meat, ayran (the refreshing yogurt drink which accompanies most meals), and Ramazan pide, a special bread baked throughout the month. In residential areas, check the local announcements for neighbourhood gatherings, a great place to experience Turkish hospitality and generosity. 

As Isha begins, you’ll find the already busy mosques fuller than usual. To capture the true “feel” of camaraderie and unity, visiting a major mosque such as Fatih or Çamlıca on the first night of Ramadan, alongside tens of thousands of others, is not to be missed. With every minaret lit up following the age-old Ottoman tradition called mahya, the atmosphere is particularly special as tarawih (special evening prayer in Ramadan) begins.

But be warned; whereas in most Muslim countries, nights during the month are spent in worship, with a significant portion dedicated to tarawih, those new to Turkey may be surprised, perhaps even, disappointed. Tarawih in Turkey is, simply put, a swift affair. In some mosques, it will last no more than 20 minutes; that’s twenty rakats completed in less than half an hour. Part of the reason for this is to make the experience easy for people without overburdening them as most maintain normal work and school hours. However, for any tarawih traditionalists, a list is provided by the government to find mosques which complete a khatam of Qur’an during the month 🙂

Once tarawih is over, shops, restaurants and cafes stay open into the early hours offering food and desserts. In some districts a new sound fills the night air as Ramadan drummers called Davulcu, make their rounds waking up the faithful for suhoor (pre-dawn meal). This is another tradition that dates back to Ottoman times, and if you’re lucky to catch it, its sound will remain etched in your memory for a long time to come.

Among the other special Ramadan traditions and spiritual secrets of Istanbul are those directly linked to the Prophet Muhammad ﷺ. Throughout the month, the Blessed Hair of the Prophet ﷺ will be put on display, allowing the public a rare chance to reap its barakah. Each relic carries with it a sanad, a chain of transmission and was part of the inherited treasures of the sultans when the Caliphate transferred from Baghdad to Istanbul in the 16th century. Relics pass from one mosque to another to allow as many people as possible the opportunity to touch the Blessed Hair. 

Another tradition linked to the Prophet ﷺ is the viewing of his hirka or cloak. This is available during the entire month when the descendants of the Companion Uwais al-Qarani (ra) open this treasure to the public. For those seeking its blessings, you will not be disappointed in this unforgettable experience which helps make Istanbul a truly wonderful place to visit during Ramadan.

Keep in mind that Turkey still prides itself as a secular Republic, therefore do not be surprised to find restaurants and cafes open and serving customers during daylight hours or locals taking a smoke break. But for those who truly want to absorb a Ramadan in Istanbul, these matters will not distract you from your spiritual objective or the wonderful traditions Istanbul has to offer during the Holy Month.      

Walk with Abu Ayyub