Heraa Hashmi on road-tripping through Morocco
It began as a casual notion, amidst busy schedules and the occasional glance at upcoming vacation time: what if we took a road trip?
My husband and I had wanted to visit Morocco for some time, but were at a loss over which cities to visit, overwhelmed by riveting accounts describing the beauty of the country. Was it better to fly into Tangier and take a round trip train to and from Casablanca? Or to settle in Marrakech and join a multi-day desert safari? Were there even tours available for the traveler interested in visiting little-known sufi sites and tombs?
Having read a plethora of blog posts and contacting friends who’d previously visited, we concluded that one could visit Morocco a dozen times and return with a different path of travel- that of the food connoisseur or adventure seeker would be very different from the one looking to visit the awliya (saints). To that end, a road trip seemed to be the best option – giving us the flexibility of movement with limited time.
It turned out to be one of the most remarkable experiences I’ve been blessed with, but, of course, the notion of a road trip in a different country naturally leads to a host of concerns. Though we researched what we could before departing, we came across a number of challenges during our ten-day journey. So for anyone considering a similar trip, I will outline everything I learned below!
Itinerary
First things first, after a few weeks of planning, this was the itinerary we settled on: visiting four cities in a total of ten days.
We landed in Tangier, rented a car, and made the two hour drive through the Rif Mountains to Chefchaouen. As I’m an inexperienced driver, my husband did all of the driving for this trip and I helped with navigation. After two nights in Chefchaouen, we headed out to return to Tangier, not before taking a half day to visit the mausoleum of Moulay Abd-as Salam ibn Mashish (article coming soon!) on Jabal (mountain) al-‘Alam. The detour took us about two hours to reach, and another hour and a half to Tangier. We spent another two nights in Tangier, enjoying the coastal sites, before driving four hours to Fes. It would’ve taken longer, but we worked our schedule around traffic, leaving mid-morning and reaching Fes in time for a late afternoon stroll around the old medina (see a Fes itinerary here). The drive to Marrakech the next afternoon was longer at around 5 and a half hours so we stopped halfway at a rest area near Casablanca to pray, eat, and refuel. After a total of 15 hours of driving (1,182 km!), we slowed down and spent the last four nights in Marrakesh and the nearby Atlas Mountains.
Obtaining an International Driving Permit
Plan on filling out an application for an International Driving Permit (IDP) weeks in advance in order to drive legally in Morocco. Usually the process takes a day, but the earlier this is taken care of, the better. Research your country of residence’s laws and process regarding international driving. In the US, there are only two entities that issue an IDP: The American Automobile Association (AAA) and the American Automobile Touring Alliance (AATA). UK drivers can get an IDP over the counter at the Post Office and check all requirements here.
Many rental car companies will look for an IDP and a valid driver’s license from the driver’s country of residence, and fines for driving without an IDP can be very costly.
Learn to Drive Manual
Driving through Morocco provides an opportunity to really see the landscape of the country, and affords a level of autonomy that trains and other forms of public transportation don’t. It doesn’t have to be costly either, especially if you know how to drive a manual car.
All the rental car companies at the airport (the easiest option for us, since we’d be returning the car at a different airport at the end of our trip) except one, offered only manual cars. This can potentially be a problem for Americans in particular, since automatic cars account for the vast majority of vehicles on US roads. The one company that did offer automatic vehicles, were charging, as expected, a price nearly $400 above manual cars. Add to this the cost of other rental fees, and it can quickly add up.
Read the Fine Print
There are a lot of resources available online on renting cars as the process doesn’t vary drastically from most other countries, but a few general tips to keep in mind:
- There is often an extra fee for younger drivers (under 25)
- Check the Collision Damage Waiver or other damage fees, as most credit-card companies will cover damage
- Take close-up pictures of the car before driving it, especially of any existing damage, to ensure you aren’t charged for anything you didn’t accrue upon return
- Refuel the car before returning to avoid a service charge
Turn-by-Turn Navigation in Google Maps Doesn’t Work
Even after purchasing a Maroc Telecom (the main telecommunication company in Morocco) SIM card, I quickly noticed Google Maps turn-by-turn navigation with voice support was not available – at all. The only buttons that pop up after entering the starting point and destination are ‘steps’ and ‘preview’. Detailed directions and a path will still be displayed on the map, but you won’t be available to start navigation and have live directions.
It’s still possible to use Google Maps to get a general idea of how to get from Point A to Point B, but definitely have a backup! Apple Maps works, and a tour guide in Chefchaouen also recommended the maps.me app, which provides offline maps, navigation, and additional information about local sites.
Road Conditions
The main highways connecting major cities are in great condition, but less frequently travelled roads can be difficult to traverse, especially at night. Accessing cities like Chefchaouen or Tatouan involve a drive through a mountain range, so exercise caution. Part of the route to Chefchaouen from Tangier consists of narrow and steep roads, and there’s no lack of pedestrians crossing waywardly, along with a wide variety of animals making the occasional appearance.
Roads in Morocco offer a convenient naming system, with motorways marked with an A, like A7 Casablanca-Marrakesh. These roads always have a toll (see below). Other major highways are the national roads, marked with an N, and are toll free. Secondary and local roads are marked by an R and P, respectively. The latter roads are narrower and less travelled, offering access to small towns and villages.
Many routes make extensive use of roundabouts instead of traffic lights, and it can often feel like rules are more like suggestions, especially in crowded areas.
If Stopped by the Police
Depending on the road or highway, police checks aren’t uncommon. Have your IDP (if applicable), car registration, and passport in an easy to access place at all times. We were stopped a few times on our way into and out of Chefchaouen, each time asked to show our passports, but within a few minutes were allowed to drive on. It seemed like regular checkpoints as other vehicles were also stopped. Most officers we encountered spoke a little English, but mainly communication was in Arabic, specifically Moroccan Darija. If you speak other dialects or even in fusha, it’s easy to get by, but without some knowledge of Arabic or French, it’s difficult.
After returning from Chefchaouen, we stuck to major highways to visit Fez and Marrakech, and were not stopped sans a speeding incident.
Watch Out for Speed Limits
About twenty minutes out of Chefchaouen, we were stopped for what seemed like another routine check but quickly noticed not all vehicles were being pulled aside. A police officer asked my husband to step out and pulled him aside, and we learned that about a mile prior, there were officers that keep track of speeding cars to notify police at the other end of the road, and they pull people over accordingly. The speeding ticket was 300 MD (about $30), and we were told that if we didn’t pay it there on the spot, they’d have to confiscate his license. Thankfully, we had cash on us and were able to pay it.
There are discussion boards that mention haggling or fines being inflated for tourists, but we were not in a position to leave the license, so we paid the fine and went on our way.
The easiest way to avoid all of this is to follow the speed limit signs, circular red and white (or yellow) signs with the limit in kilometres. Keep a keen eye on them as they can change frequently within short distances.
Gas/filling stations
Diesel is cheaper than petrol (but renting a diesel car is more expensive, so check beforehand as it’ll most likely even out). Most gas stations are full-service and it’s standard to tip the attendant around 2 dirhams if additional services are provided.
Tolls
An expanding network of high-speed motorways (autoroutes, the names of which are marked with an A like A3 Casablanca-Marrakesh) have a closed toll, meaning it’s a ticket system. You obtain a ticket upon entering the highway and pay when exiting, with the price depending on the distance travelled. Locals usually have a prepaid card to make automatic payments, but others have to pay in cash, usually from 5 to 20 dirhams.
Parking
Contact hotels (or wherever you are staying) about parking in advance. Not unlike major cities globally, open car parks are a commodity, unless it’s on the outskirts. In areas crowded with tourists in particular, individuals can be quite forthcoming about helping you park and charging you afterward for ‘watching your car’ while you’re away. Other places will have parking attendants, usually wearing a neon vest or a cap. In either case, have at least 2-10 dirhams on hand as many places don’t use ticketing machines.
Change & Etiquette
After budgeting for your planned trip, keep at least a hundred dirhams handy at all times, including small change, both in the case of an emergency and to be as courteous as possible. Many restaurants, chain stores, and gas stations will accept payment by card, but in most cases, you need to have cash on hand, especially when in older parts of cities. The Moroccan dirham is also a closed currency, meaning it’s not readily available outside Morocco. For convenience’s sake, currency can be exchanged/bought at airports, but ATMs are widely available.
It’s customary to tip, in coins or cash, the parking and gas attendants, as mentioned above, but also tour guides, hotel/riad (guest house) porters, etc. At times, people may be very forthcoming in offering a service, even if it’s not needed, in which case it’s acceptable to firmly refuse the offer. Unlike in the US, there’s no rule of thumb for tipping at restaurants or cafés, especially outside tourist-heavy areas where a service charge is often included in the bill. When in doubt, round up.
There were times during the road trip when I wondered if this had been the best, or even a good mode of travel, but by the end, I had no regrets. There’s an indescribable sweetness in roaming the terrain of an unknown country on your own, even with the inevitable rough patches here and there. There was the fear of our car breaking down in the middle of the mountains or getting lost in long stretches of desert land with little internet connection; but weighing heavier than all of that in the back of our minds was the worry we wouldn’t properly make the most of our time.
Though it was more costly, the time saved by not having to organise ourselves around bus or train schedules, the ability to take last-minute detours, visiting locations that public transportation might not have reached, gave us a sense of adventure and appreciation for the freedom it offered. In just ten days, we were able to visit four cities and catch glimpses of life in between: the kindness of passersby who gave us directions, the peacocks grazing near the coast, long swathes of lush, untouched land. Driving past towering mountains beneath a gliding sunset with duas on our tongue, it was most definitely worth it.
