For the first time in many years Karachi is in a good position to say Khush Amdeed – Welcome! So if you’re planning a visit to my home city, or are looking for a reason to, here is a quick guide to Karachi!
Unlike other cities in Pakistan, Karachi does not bear the distinction of having given birth to thousands of years of glorious civilisation, or housing mighty empires within its boundaries. Not long ago, the city was a mere fishing village on the shores of the Arabian Sea, then known as Kolachi after a valiant Balochi fisher-maid, who -according to local legend- braved the rough waters of the Arabian Sea to save her husband from drowning.
It wasn’t until the arrival of the British East India Company – on 1st February 1839 – that this backwater fishing village began its transformation to a major trading hub.
Rapid transformation
Within the span of a hundred years the city underwent rapid change that saw the emergence of everything from modern markets and a bustling tram system to numerous beautification projects. The city was on the road to success. As a water-port that is warm all year round, and located just a stone’s throw away from other major trading hubs in the region, the city of Karachi started to attract migrants from across the globe: Afghans, Parsis, Goan Christians, Burmese, Chinese, Arabs and others among them. They helped transform Karachi into the cosmopolitan city it is today.
In 1947 when Pakistan declared its independence from the British Empire, Karachi bore the burden of being designated the capital city of the nation in its infancy. At the time of independence it opened its doors to another wave of migrants – the Indian Muslims collectively referred to as the Muhajjirs.
The Muhajjir community came from all four corners of India, bringing with them their own culture and heritage, and thus added to the fabric of an already diverse city. The city’s literati affectionately started referring to it as Uroos Ulbilaad (the Bride among Cities) and Roshniyon ka Shehr (City of Lights). With its burgeoning nightlife and thriving café culture the city was a favorite regional stopover and weekend getaway hub until around the mid 70’s.
Political turmoil
It was in 1977 when Karachi’s good times came to a screeching halt; a military led coup led to the enforcement of a strict form of ‘Sharia’ law all over the country. From this point onwards Pakistan slipped into a seemingly endless cycle of political, economic, sectarian and ethnic violence; among all the country’s cities, Karachi was hit the hardest.
Recovery
In the last decade, due to the country’s overall improving economic, political and security situation, Karachi is starting to suture its wounds and heal itself. Home to a staggering population of over 21 million people, the majority of whom are young and active, the city is reinventing itself. With a thriving arts and crafts culture and a nascent performing-arts scene, Karachi seems all set to leave its dark day’s behind. A progressive and expanding middle class has brought with it a vibrant restaurant and café culture. Air-conditioned shopping malls, multiplex cinemas and high rise apartment complexes are popping up all across town. Nobody wants to say it out loud out of the fear of jinxing it – but the good times seem to have returned.
For the first time in many years the city is in a good position to say Khush Amdeed – Welcome! So if you’re planning a visit to my home city, or are looking for a reason to, here are some of my favourite spots in Karachi!
Empress Market
As the financial and economic capital of Pakistan, it should come as no surprise that Karachi gets started early each morning. The best place to watch the city arise is the Empress Market. Located dead in the heart of Karachi’s bustling centre, the market area is a chaotic hive of activity from the crack of dawn to sundown – selling everything from hair growth formulas and exotic herbal medicines, to the freshest fruits and vegetables in town.
That said, the market has a pretty somber history.
Following the First Indian War of Independence in 1857 against the rule of the British East India Company, those involved in the resistance were publicly executed to dispel any further feelings of dissent among natives. The ground upon which the Empress Market now stands served as the execution square, where mutineers had canons fired upon them. In subsequent years the area, tainted with memory of colonial brutality, became a protest square where locals would gather en masse to show their disapproval of British rule. That is why, in 1889, a towering, state of the art market was built on the spot by the British authorities, who feared another rebellion brewing among the natives. To add salt to local wounds, it was named Empress of India – after Queen Victoria.
At dawn, traders and merchants from all across the region descend onto the market square bringing their produce to sell. Walking through the market on any given day can overwhelm the senses; the scent of freshly cut mint leaves and burning joss sticks; the sounds of boisterous merchants and chirping birds. The market is definitely not for the faint hearted – though it’s always fun to wander aimlessly through its labyrinthine alleys, checking out the usual, quirky and sometimes downright bizarre items for sale. It never fails to amaze.
Owing to its height, the market’s Merewether Clock Tower is clearly visible from most corners of the downtown area. Designed in a Gothic Revival style by the British, the sandstone tower was carved by local stonemasons.
Driving downtown, you can’t help but notice the architectural landscape is somewhat chaotic, with a mad palette of colours. Elegant buildings from the time of the British Raj sit alongside more rustic looking apartment complexes. Baroque, Gothic Revival, Mughlai and Art Deco – all are represented on the streets of Karachi.
Mosques and Dargahs
Unlike Lahore’s Badshahi and Islamabad’s Faisal Masjid, Karachi doesn’t have one particular central mosque, but has, instead, many unique mosques scattered across town.
Built in 1893 by the Memon community, the Kutchi Memon Mosque is one of the oldest in the city. It stands out among its more mundane surroundings, with its pistachio green colour. The area in which the mosque sits is home to members of the Memon ethnic community, most of whom practice Sunni Islam.
Close by is the Tahiri Masjid, belonging to the Dawoodi Bohra community, a sect of the Ismaili branch of Shia Islam. The Bohra community is well known around the city for it’s generous hospitality and delicious cuisine. It’s an absolute treat to be invited to a Bohra wedding!
On the other side of town in a quiet residential neighborhood is the Tooba Masjid, built in 1969. What is unique about the mosque is that it’s just one giant dome- without any pillars or columns. Because of its unique architectural style a prayer said at the mihrab can easily be heard all the way to its surrounding gardens, without the use of any microphones. With its outdoor space included, the mosque can accommodate up to 22,000 worshippers at a time.
Any Karachi story would be incomplete without the mention of Abdullah Shah Ghazi, the unofficial patron saint of the city by the sea. An 8th century Sufi mystic, he died in 773 AD /151 AH. His shrine is located on top of a hillock in the affluent seaside neighborhood of Clifton. Many Karachiites of all colours and backgrounds, vehemently believe that the city is protected from any natural calamities, especially those from the sea, because of the spiritual power of Shah Ghazi. On any given day the shrine is a hive of activity; people come from far and wide to walk barefoot up to the sacred space, bringing with them whatever they have to offer. Some just come empty handed to find some solace within the sanctum of the shrine.
Located in the busiest part of town at a junction of a major crossroads is Karachi’s most iconic structure – the Mazar-e-Quaid, or mausoleum of Mohammed Ali Jinnah, founder of modern day Pakistan. Built in 1971 in the modernist architectural style, the domed, white marble structure can be seen from afar. The surrounding gardens are a favorite hangout spot for Karachi residents.
Frere Hall
Built in classic Venetian Gothic style, the Frere Hall is by far one of Karachi’s most well known and recognizable architectural landmarks. Its distinctive towering spires can easily be spotted from a mile away.
The gardens around Frere Hall are collectively referred to as “Bagh e Jinnah” (Jinnah Garden). From parkour enthusiasts and serious joggers to laid-back readers chilling on the grass, the park is buzzing with activity from the late afternoon to nightfall.
In 1986 Sadequain, one of Pakistan’s most celebrated artists painted his last masterpiece Arz O Samawat (the Heavens and the Earth), which covers the entire ceiling of the Frere Hall. His personal ode to the people of Karachi, he sadly died before he could complete it. A common theme of his work was the struggle of man; dedicating his last mural to the people of Karachi, he wanted them to realise their potential as human beings by striving to face their daily struggles and challenges.
Seaview and Clifton
As you drive south, away from the buzzing chaotic centre of the city across the Clifton Bridge, you hit the upscale and relatively wealthy neighborhoods of Clifton and Defence. They’re both home to numerous art galleries, cafes, museums, shopping malls and some of the finest dining options in the city.
Located in a discreet alleyway in Clifton, in the middle of an apartment complex, is one of my favorite hangout spots in the city, the Road Side Café. Not only does the café serve you a mean piping hot cup of chai, but its walls also function as constantly evolving public art displays. The café walls are covered with murals of famous Pakistani and Karachi icons; every time I visit I always spot something or someone new that adds more prestige to these already impressive walls.
Located right at the edge of town is Seaview, Karachi’s most popular public beach. Karachiites from all walks of life come to this popular city spot to let their hair down. Everyday around sunset, the beach comes alive with a festival atmosphere and a cacophony of sounds as street food vendors, peddling their treats, vie for customers.
Every city has that tourist hotspot you just have to visit, or that one cliché tourist image that immediately screams the city’s name. For Karachi, it’s the overly decked out camels. Cliché or not, they’re one of my favourite things about the beach 🙂
Not long ago, when you drove into the city, you would be welcomed by ugly political and sectarian graffiti. Now, thankfully, it has been replaced with beautiful truck-art murals, painted all across the major freeway heading into town. The largest of these boldly reads Welcome to Karachi. So when are you coming?
