The Prophet ﷺ once sent forth a man to meet with an Arab tribe. When the man eventually returned to Mecca, beaten and humiliated, he spoke of the tribe’s cruelty towards him. The Prophet ﷺ responded: “If you were to come to the people of Oman, they would have neither insulted nor abused you.” (Sahih Muslim 2544).
The Sultanate of Oman is one of the oldest independent Arab states, and is closest amongst its Gulf neighbours to Persia and South Asia. Thanks to its seafaring history, Omani merchants travelled and settled all across the Indian Ocean. They left a definitive mark across the region, most notably in their spreading of Islam through trade in East Africa, Indonesia, and China. This in turn had gradually transformed Oman, and particularly its current capital city, Muscat, into a melting pot of Indian Ocean cultures; today, you can find Omani locals in traditional attire speaking a host of languages, from Arabic, Swahili, Balochi and Zidajali, to Hindi, Lawati, Shehri and English. Muscat’s rich history of absorbing and adopting various cultures has culminated in an ‘Omani Arab culture’ that has been celebrated for centuries.
I grew up in Muscat before leaving at 19 to study, travel, and work abroad for nearly a decade. It wasn’t until the 2020 pandemic that I returned home for good. Though I still consider myself a local, resettling in the city after being away for so long has helped me to see it anew through an outsider’s eyes. While there is no shortage of guides for must-see landmarks in Muscat, I want to share my favourite memories and sites that will allow you to experience the city away from the usual tourist hotspots.
1 Take a morning stroll in Shatti al-Qurum
The first thing visitors usually notice about Oman is the “chill,” introverted nature of the locals. On account of its small population, Muscat feels more like a quiet town, even in its busiest areas.
One of my favourite spots to unwind and relax after a long flight or a busy day is Hayy al-Shatti, the Beach district. Located in al-Qurum, a quiet, upmarket district built in the 1980s, its modest houses and sidewalks are flanked by rows of bougainvillea and soaring palms that direct you towards the public beach. Evenings and weekends are lively with joggers, family picnics, and friendly games of football. The beach is around 4km long, dotted with hotels, grassy fields, embassies, and restaurants, one of which is Nana’s, where you can enjoy a good offering of Omani breakfast overlooking the Gulf of Oman.
2 Kayak in a mangrove forest in al-Qurum
The Qurum Nature Reserve, Oman’s first official nature reserve, lies in the heart of Muscat. It contains the largest mangrove forest in the Gulf, which is how the district got its name (qurum is “mangrove” in Arabic).
The reserve is home to an array of flora and fauna, including fish and migratory birds. Public admission is only available through seasonal guided tours via Wave Summit. The company also offers daily kayak rentals for use around al Qurum’s coastline and the beautiful surrounding mountains. And if kayaking feels too risky, try visiting Ash-Shatti Street instead; locally known as “Love Street” for its romantic ambiance, you can see the mangrove forest from the rooftops of any of its beachfront coffee shops.
3 Pray in Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq Mosque in Wattayah
Of the many mosques I’ve had the privilege to visit and pray in around the world, this one holds a special place in my heart. My father used to take my family and I here for Friday prayers, as it was one of the biggest mosques in the city with a dedicated space for women. It’s also one of the most beautiful examples of eccentric 80s modernist architecture, decorated with angular patterns on its exterior, and a beautiful wooden interior.
4 Indulge in a mandazi with karak chai
Mandazi is a sweet dough originally from East Africa that become a staple treat in Muscat, loved by Omanis young and old. While it could be eaten alone, or in some cases stuffed, many usually dip it in karak chai, a blend of black tea, sugar and spices boiled in heavy milk that came to the Gulf from South Asia. Mandazi can be found in any of Oman’s Zanzibari restaurants. I personally recommend visiting my own family favourite, Zanzibar Bakery & Confectionery in al-Seeb, or Ash Cafe in al-Khuwair, both of which also serve karak.
5 Visit Asmaa bint al-Alawi Mosque
This is one of my favourite mosques for taraweeh prayers during the festive nights of Ramadan, and another iconic architectural gem from the 80s. The Asmaa bint al-Alawi mosque was built by a wealthy businessman, Qais al Zawawi and his siblings, who named it after their beloved mother.
Designed in a graceful Maghrebi style, some of its most striking features are a squared clock minaret and a beautiful courtyard laced with intricate tile work. Inside, you can find more elaborate tile work alongside stunning carvings and calligraphy.
6 Try the staple Paplou soup in Muttrah
Paplou (also known as “bablo” amongst Arabs) is a classic comfort dish of light lemon fish curry served with white rice or bread. It was introduced to Oman by Balochi tribes that settled in the region centuries ago.
One of the best spots to try this dish is Bait al Luban restaurant. Here, you can enjoy your meal in a more traditional manner, by sitting on the floor, or, if you prefer, at tables on a balcony overlooking the Muttrah corniche and the new Snøhetta-designed Muttrah Fish Market.
Fun fact: the building the restaurant is housed in was one of the first three-story buildings built in Muttrah during the late 70s, and is also where my grandfather lived in the late 80s!
7 Visit Al Khor Mosque (also known as the Martyrs’ Mosque)
Often overlooked by visitors and locals alike, this is one of the most important and historic mosques in Muscat. Located behind the old Muscat walls, at the foot of the Mirani fort, not much is known about when the mosque was built. The earliest known record of it is in relation to its destruction by invading Portuguese forces in the early 16th century. The city was later recaptured by local Omani forces led by Imam Sultan bin Saif al Yarubi, after which the mosque was rebuilt in 1650 CE. It was renamed ‘Martyrs’ Mosque’ in memory of those who died liberating the city from the Portuguese.
From the mid-17th century onwards, the mosque held a high position as a madrassa, or religious school, producing various Omani scholars, judges, poets, and a governmental administrative work force. After the petrol boom in the 1970’s, when old Muscat was completely overhauled, the mosque underwent a full renovation. It lost its old Omani, minimalist charm, but gained a new, elegant beauty with tall, coloured glass windows and intricate woodwork, adorned with tiled ceiling inscriptions of the 99 Divine Names of Allah. Locally, it is also referred to as the ‘Mosque of the Family,’ in reference to the royal family of Oman who occasionally hold Eid prayers here.
8 Admire the night skyline of Muscat from Amerat Heights
At the peak of the hairpin turns on Boushar-Amerat Mountain Road (which I personally enjoy driving on), lies an unofficial, but locally known viewing area overlooking Muscat. It has wonderful views of the city, especially at night. It is an open hill with no security barriers, so please be cautious if you are walking around the brittle rock edges.
It can only be accessed from the Boushar side; at the very end of the last hairpin, turn early in the ascent where a small dirt road to your right will take you to the top of the hill.
9 Camp under the stars on the outskirts of the city
The whole of Oman has an open-camping policy, which means you can literally park and camp anywhere in the wilderness or on the beaches around Muscat, provided you are a fair distance from any farmland or houses. Locals and expats often camp to take a break from the city, especially during the evenings when the weather is more bearable; popular locations include Al-Sifah beach, Yiti beach, or Bandar al-Khiran.
Most of northern Oman’s terrain is rocky desert, so soft bedding is recommended for a good night’s sleep. While it’s possible to navigate this terrain with smaller cars, 4WD is more ideal. Most big supermarkets around Muscat sell camping gear, such as Sultan Center, Carrefour, or Lulu. Please pay attention to weather forecasts as flash floods are very common if you are camping in wadis (dry rivers) – even if the downpour is expected on distant mountains, flooding can quickly reach lower ground.
10 Visit Ruwi’s 1980’s architectural time bubble
Ruwi was the city’s main business district and its economic hub after the post-oil renaissance of the 1970s, becoming the first modernised quarter in Oman. As the city expanded, locals moved out to other areas with larger houses, while immigrants, mostly from South Asia, moved into Ruwi.
Through the decades, it has maintained its 1970/80’s architectural heritage. Important landmarks include the Bait al Falaj Fort (now a museum), which was the headquarters of the Sultan’s armed forces for 150 years; Stars Cinema, one of the first cinemas in the city that screened many Bollywood (and some Hollywood) movies; and even the asphalt remains of Muscat’s first airport, which is where I learned how to drive.
Fun fact: The 14-story Sheraton Hotel in Ruwi is the tallest building in Oman.
Though it may sound rather dated, there is life in Ruwi yet! Older generations of locals and immigrants still shop here, since the best tailors, textiles, jewellery, and even mechanic stores can be found in the area, which becomes very lively in the evenings.
Special Mentions
Muttrah GeoTrek
It was only a few years ago that I discovered a scenic hiking trail in the mountains surrounding the old city of Muttrah, despite passing it daily!
This easy hiking path is well defined and marked throughout, and can be done in about 1.5 hours. The track is not a looped one; it starts from Riyam Park and ends behind Muttrah city, under the Jalali Fort. I recommend starting from Riyam Park to avoid parking in the narrow alleys of Muttrah. Bring some snacks, be mindful of slippery rocks, and enjoy the breathtaking views!
Edited by Asma
ALTERNATIVE TRAVEL
