Soufiane Enomayry didn’t plan to hitchhike alone for 500 or so kilometers across his home country, Morocco, but he’s glad he had this “opportunity of a lifetime.” Soufiane planned the adventure with three of his friends: Abderahim Hilaly, Soufiane Boulhyaoui, and Zakaria Moumen. Hitchhiking, or “autostopping” as it is known locally, is a common enough mode of transport in Morocco met with mixed views. While it is often used by teens and young adults to get back and forth to school there are still plenty of people who feel it is too risky.
Soufiane B referred to statistics that Morocco is considerably safer than other countries and applied that to his decision to “give it a try.” The young men’s families reflected the general population’s views with mixed feelings about the whole thing. Some gave money towards the adventure and advice on points of interest to see, others were concerned about the people the youth may encounter and that they may be taken advantage of in rural and mountainous settings. These far-reaching people were exactly who the friends wanted to meet and see their different lifestyles.
The four hitchhikers are all from scenic towns dotted with both palms and argan trees along the coast of Morocco, from Essaouira to Agadir. The weather encourages them to wear wear flip flops nearly year round, and they seldom find themselves more than a few kilometers above sea level. Though they all drink green and mint tea for breakfast like Moroccans the country over, they also sometimes have fish couscous – a delicacy unimagined in other regions.
Seeing how the other half lives, along lakes, on mountains, and in ancient medinas was a dream for the group. Along with some well-sourced camping equipment found in souks and flea markets, the friends agreed that this dream could be met using just their thumbs. Roughly 800 kilometers north of their homes, Fes was chosen as the group’s final destination. They started out in Marrakech after a six-day bus tour with a larger non-profit organization, Idiots for Good, which they are all a part of founding.
The would-be autostoppers quickly learned that hitchhiking is less popular in bustling cities. Unlike back home, no one was picking them up in town, and strangers suggested they try further out. The friends took a taxi to the outskirts of town and caught their first ride for about 100km to Demnate, a picturesque stopping point on the way to the gorge of Imi n’Ifri, their second stop-off before their desired destination of the Ouzoud waterfalls. The rides weren’t coming fast enough for these novice hitchhikers; after a two-hour wait they took a “grand taxi” – meaning shared taxi that travels city to city.
The grand taxi, which follows a specific route like a bus, dropped them on a country road 9km from the road they needed to head to for Ouzoud. The group agreed to walk the distance, at a slightly reduced walking speed as Zakaria has a disability which impairs his walking and other aspects of his muscular and nervous system. After two hours of traversing the rocky fields and being fully exposed to the sun, they reached the road to Ouzoud and decided to split into two groups of two, hoping to get to the falls faster.
The entire group kept in constant communication with their phones, even enjoying the other members’ social media uploads and live streams while in each other’s company. Abdelrahim and Soufiane B were almost immediately picked up and made it to the site of the stunning, 360-foot waterfalls before Soufiane and Zakaria were even picked up by their next ride. Three hours later the group was reunited. Their toil was rewarded with a generous discount for a camping spot shaded by olive trees and right along the river at the foot of the falls.
Demonstrating that well-known Moroccan hospitality, the camp owner was one of many along their trip who was pleased to find fellow countrymen venturing among the many faces of European and other foreign tourists. The group set up the second tent and Soufiane N. made his now infamous honey-drizzled omelettes and soupy rice over a portable butagaz tank. Exhausted from the travel but energized by the adventure, they lay awake cracking jokes until the early hours of morning. After another simple camp-meal for breakfast Zakaria who was feeling a bit unwell, had another chance to try his grit.
“They do everything for me at home. I had to count on myself,” Zak says of his experience on the road. In addition to being responsible for carrying his own pack, for the first time in his life, Zak got to wash his own clothes – in the rushing river of the Ouzoud falls. And he loved it, even as he was struggling to shake off what they now suspect was sunstroke. Zakaria’s energy levels were plummeting, but his enthusiasm continued to soar. Once their clothes were dry the guys were back on the road to Fes, by way of the great lake, Bin el Ouidane, which was man-made by an immense dam in 1953. Their first and uneventful autostop of the day dropped them off in the Azilal, a small city in the central portion of the Atlas Mountains.
The group had a leisurely lunch before catching another ride to Bin el Ouidane, where they were faced with hundreds of kilometers of lakeside grounds to find a safe and acceptable place to camp for the night. The group was happy to be told about a semi-private space by its watchman, who they happened upon while searching. After they had set up their tents and camp kitchen, a police officer happened on the group. He remained unconvinced that they had proper permission to be on the property, so they shamelessly turned to another tactic which proved useful along the journey. They used Zakaria’s disability as a means to seek empathy, though more so they meant his illness, which was worsening.
While a pool had been the guardian’s selling point for the semi-secluded spot, it turned out to be too murky to use, and the line of forest at the edge of the property was what they were ultimately thankful for. That night their boisterous camp tales were frequently interrupted by the ragged calls of wild boars. In a bit of a pragmatic panic, the friends decided to make their camp less inviting by eating all their food. Stuffed, they eventually felt comfortable that the boars would stay in the woods, and they fell asleep.
The next day the group had to address Zakaria’s physical state. While he wanted to rest it out a few days in frugal accommodation, some of the members were unable to continue the trip with that extra expense and delay. They were also very concerned about his health. It was decided that Zakaria, Abderahim and Soufiane B would return home, while Soufiane would carry on to Fes alone. This is where the friends’ families really split on their feelings about the adventure. Soufiane’s parents gave Zakaria, Abderahim and Soufiane B a tongue lashing for “abandoning” him. While Soufiane’s mother chastised his friends, she also supported him with endearments to “Pay attention to yourself, take good covers at night, eat well…” With these admonishments he continued on his journey.
His first night on the road was quieter, but uneventful. Soufiane arrived in the town of Khenifra via Beni Mellal too late to find a location for his tent, so he stayed in a small motel. The next day he struggled to find a ride to Alguelmam National Park, so after hitchhiking halfway he settled on a small, local taxi (known locally as “kidnappers”) and walked the remaining 5km to the park. Soufiane B had noted that, “When we were together we didn’t have time to see the sky.” In Alguelmam National Park Soufiane, the lone auto stopper, got a full taste of solitude, noting the park’s views surrounded by mountains were the most stunning of the entire trip. The next day, he would get his first and only taste of the dangers of travelling while alone.
Soufiane had decided to visit Ifrane, an unusual little town that Lonely Planet describes: “As foreign tourists head to the medinas for a taste of the ‘real’ Morocco, Moroccan tourists find more favour with places such as Ifrane. Tidy, ordered and modern, it feels more like Switzerland relocated to the Middle Atlas than North Africa…” It was in the ideal Umm Al Rabee valley en route to M’rit where Soufiane wielded a stick to fend off two wild dogs. He was feeling the gravity of being all alone in the countryside as one dog lunged for him, but its owner suddenly appeared and called the animal off. The man, again, displaying that Moroccan hospitality, offered Soufiane a meal and a place to stay. Set on making it to Ifrane before dark he declined but was thankful that he was able to continue after nearly being mauled.
En route to Ifrane a fellow passenger in a grand taxi explained to Soufiane that camping wasn’t possible in the small town. Fortunately the man also knew of an apartment Soufiane could use for the night and got him another great discount on it. Soufiane found Ifrane truly a unique, charming little town “very green and clean” but it was his next stop that was the only one alluring enough to keep him for two nights: Chefchaouen. Located in the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen is that painted dreamy blue city, “The Blue Pearl,” you often see representing Morocco. While tents are not allowed within the actual city and the local hostel didn’t seem appealing, again Soufiane was offered a discount at a local hotel – this time with some light negotiating. Perhaps partially because it was nice to be back in an urban environment, but also because he found the locals in Chefchaouen to live up to their reputation of being “so friendly,” Soufiane stayed on two nights exploring the city and doing some light mountain climbing. Jebel El-Kelaa, a mountain just behind Chefchaouen is about 1912 metres, smaller than Toubkal at 4,167m and Morocco’s highest peak, which he has already climbed. Soufiane would love to climb Kilimanjaro one day, insha Allah. Every corner and crag of Chefchaouen exhausted him, and he was ready to get to the group’s desired final destination: Fes. He took a bus for this final leg of the journey.
Founded in the 8th-9th century, Fes is one of the oldest, historically-rich cities in Morocco, and host to The University of al-Qarawiyyin, the oldest university in the world. Still considered the religious centre of Morocco, its medina alone houses more than 100 mosques, as well as being one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. After half a day of taking in the dazzling sites, including a brief trip to Sidi Harazem just outside the city, Soufiane had reached his goal and was feeling done. He purchased a bus ticket to Agadir, and settled in for a 12-hour ride home.
What they have to say…
Would Soufiane hitchhike alone across Morocco again?
Absolutely. He would prefer to travel with others and his friends have committed to giving it another go, but if he found himself in similar circumstances he would do it again.
What were some of his best outtakes of the experience?
Soufiane says that travelling in general updates and refreshes your mind. It gives you chances to know yourself and meet people from different cultures living different lifestyles, such as the people who live in the mountainous regions. It also gave him the opportunities to practice self-control and be confident, and it confirmed that he has a lot of comforts when he saw firsthand others having so much less. Through travelling he recognized that he should be more open to opportunities to further himself in general.
Which areas did he see that would be worth a second trip?
The lesser known Alguelmam National Park with its stunning views, quaint and clean Ifrane, and Chefchaouen lives up to its uniqueness and friendliness.
How was it different travelling alone versus with friends?
Being with friends is so fun, and there is a lot of laughing; being alone gives you a chance to think and talk to your inner self – there are no activities aside from seeing beautiful things.
From the other members of the group:
What were some of your best outtakes of the experience?
Zakaria said that in many ways he discovered himself, saw what he is capable of doing, and that he is even capable of easily meeting many new people. An unexpected thing was all the people looking at him and who he was motivating. People even stopped to take photos with him and the others.
What might you do differently next time?
Soufiane wants to travel across the country by bicycle.
Zakaria wants to go at a slower pace, to take in more that way.
Quick Guide to Autostopping in Morocco
- Traveling in a group of 2-3 people is probably safest and easiest for group size, especially for women
- With just a little camping equipment, you can see several regions and famous cities for about 1000 MAD
- Prices are negotiable, even in hotels. If it’s 200 MAD a night try to get it for 150
- Carrying a small container of butagaz (camping gas) will save you ten fold in eating on the road
- Stand near police checkpoints on the outskirts of town to catch rides from drivers who have already slowed down
- Though there are loads of small shops, even in rural areas, you can never carry more water than you’ll need
Further Reading
A Moroccan Woman’s Hitchhiking Tales
Idiots for Good is a non-profit youth group that helps build and repair the homes of families in great need in Morocco.
Brooke Benoit lives full-time in Morocco where she hosts ‘The Big Reconnect Sleepover’ annual retreats for Muslim Women.
